Situated at a hight of 1672 mtr on the eastern ghats of South Odisha,Deomali hill top is a marvelous scenic beauty with wide range of flora and fauna and inhabited by tribes like Kondh,Bhumia and Malli.On the way to Sunabeda from Koraput it is around 58 kms from Koraput.
The Deomali Hill top
I started from Raygada to Jeypore and Koraput and then after one night stay at Jeypore, went to Deomali.Wide and sometime narrow roads flanked both sides with green stretches of trees,it gives a feel of travelling in a tunnel made of trees.Negotiating the sharp turns and hilly terrain it offers an adventurous journey till one reaches to the hill top of Deomali. Cold winds blowing at the peak of the hill and sitting there at the posts made by Odisha Tourism is something one can cherish the memories of adventurous journey.
Things to do: Photography lovers can capture some of the beautiful snaps of naturural Beauty.Treaking, Camping and film shoot or simply stitting at the posts and enjoying the nature.
Travel advice:Good driving skills,warm clothing during winter is must.In addition Stepney is must as no tyre repair shop is nearby and the road puts the vehicle tyre to its extreams.I had a tyre burst near Koraput but fortunately I had a Stepney and a tyre shop near by.Changed the tyre at the store and went ahead.
The tyre shop at Koraput
Food, one need to carry if planning for a camp or trek.Nereby villages are inhabited by tribes who are very cooperative and research scolars can make document on their lifestyle.
Where to stay: The nereby hotel available is at Koraput or Jeypore.I stayed at Jeypore in a hotel named Hello Jeypore with a rent of Rs.1895 plus. Restaurant is attached with the lodging.
Hotel Hello Jeypore.
How to reach:The Deomali hill top can be reached by car and bikes.Nearest railway station is at Jeypore.Nearest airport is Bhubaneswar and Visakhapatnam.
One can plan for travel to Deomali alongwith Gupteswar temple near Jeypore and some good number of waterfalls in Koraput district.
During my stay at Berhampur,Odisha, on holidays I travelled to nearby tourist attractions.Away from home and family, holidays are difficult for time pass.So to make the holiday a memorable one, I decided to explore the lesser known places nearby with historical importance and highlight them for a better tourist inflow.After all Odisha is “India’s best kept secret”.One such destination is the Gopalpur -on- Sea.
History of Gopalpur:A 15 Kms ride from Berhampur,Gopalpur ,a sleepy town on the beach of Bay of Bengal has been named after the Gopalji(Lord Krishna) temple built by a trader in 18 th century. Those days, traders from Odisha would sail to Burma,Java,Sumatra from this place.One such successful trader after earning huge profits,decided to build a temple in the name of Gopal or Krishna.Slowly the area became populated with more fisherman and traders settling here.The temple is located just near the beach and I could not resist my temptation to see the historical monument.
Later during British rule the place had seen major activities on the port by way of rice import from Burma.Now the old port have been modernised and trading activities have picked up.
The Beach: Gopalpur beach is one of the beautiful beach of India located in South Odisha . Mangroves,long strech of Cashew nut and coconut trees adds to the trill of blue horizon accross the sea.The light house is another major attraction,one can see the entire Gopalpur from the top.
Small food stalls selling Coconut and fishfry on the beach adds to the joy of foodies like me.Not much crowded during morning hours become a most sought-after place for the nearby people who gather here in the evening and enjoy the sea food sitting on the newly constructed sitting arrangements on the beach.
Coconut selling
It was half past noon and climate was hot.Even the crow was serching for shade.I decided to go to a restaurant for lunch.Rice,Dal, chicken biryani and sea fish was on the menu card.I prefered Chicken biriyani and a coke.
The crow searching for shade.
What are the things to enjoy: Gopalpur beach has been developed by Odisha tourism recently,like water sports, beach festivals and sitting arrangements facing the deep blue sea.One can simply sit there and watch the sea or the sea crabs fighting on the sand dunes.Water sports and bird watching are other things one can enjoy.
Water sportsBrahmy kiteBrahmy kite and large egretKentish ploverLarge egret.
Children can enjoy in newly opened childre park on the beach or can try beach kabbadi.
Beach kabbadiA crab on the sand dunes.
Photography lovers can go around for some beautiful snaps
After lunch, I went for birding and captured on my Nikon camera some shots of birds and the beautiful beach.
When to visit:Well for a traveller there is no particular time to visit a destination ,I feel,but it is better to consider a visit during October to December when one can enjoy the beach festival and also not to worry about rain during that time.
Where to stay:There are many budget hotels costing Rs 2000/- onwards and also some premium hotels like Mayfair and others facing directly towards the sea.Also one can stay at Berhampur.
Some budget hotels on the beach.
How to reach: From Berhampur it is only 15 Kms journey, one can hire a taxy or can prefer the buses plying frequently from Berhampur.Berhampur is a South Odisha town connected by train and roadways from Chennai,Kolkota and Bhubaneswar.The nearest airport is Bhubaneswar.
Food preferences:All types of vegetarian and Non-vegetarian food is available and is influenced by South Indian taste.Idli and Dosa are favourite for breakfast.
Clothings: Climate is pleasant and not cold to carry winter garments.Being a costal area ,rain can be expected anytime and thus may prefer to carry an umbrella.During noon hours it is bit hot and thus may advise to carry loose clothing,goggles and hat.
There is another sea side tourist place at Chilka, the largest salt water lake near Berhampur.Some other day again a travel diary to Chilka.
On the way to Baudh from Rairakhol in Odisha state of India, a lesser known place of Kandhara.A small Mutt and the famous well there.From inside the well the famous lines of Bhimabhoi once uttered, now written on the walls of UnitedNations…… A Mahima sanyasi at the Mutt there narrates me the teachings of Bhimabhoi.
Mahima Sanyasi dressed in bark of tree.Who narrated me the story.
In 1850, Bhimabhoi also known as the Blind poet and Santha kabi was born in a Kondh clan of Jatesingha, now in Subarnapur District of Odisha.Being from a very poor family, in search of livelyhood, once he reaches to Kandhara village.He plead for a job in front of the landlord there.After initial reluctance,the landlord later agreed to keep him as the care taker of the cattle folk.Bhimabhoi would take the cattles to the jungle for grazing and return in the evening.He was blind since birth.Once while coming back, he fell into a well.Cattles returned back to the village,but one calf didn’t.The calf stayed there at the well, waiting for Bhimabhoi to come out.The landlord sent someone to find out the missing calf.The man reaches to the calf and found Bhimabhoi inside the well.The villagers reaches to the spot and tried to bring Bhimabhoi out.But Bhimabhoi refused to comeout….who had made me fall here only( he meant God) will take me out…he insisted. Failed to pursuade Bhimabhoi ,finally the villagers returned back, leaving him inside the well.
The famour well at Kandhara.
Seeing the pain, God himself went to the well to take out Bhimabhoi.God extended his right hand into the well but Bhimabhoi again refused.How can I believe you without seeing you my God…..Bhimabhoi told.There are many who had come here to help me come out.You may be one among them.But I want him to help me who had made me fall here.
Bhimabhoi being blind since birth could not see.He asked God to give him eyesight, so that he could see himeself and believe.God agreed and gave him eyesight.Bhimabhoi, then agreed to hold God’s right hand and come out of the well……but he immediately requested God to take back the eyesights…and uttered the famous lines…..
…….witnessing the plethora of plights on earth how one could bear with; let the world get redeemed at my cost” ( ପ୍ରାଣୀଙ୍କଆରତ ଦୁଃଖ ଅପ୍ରମିତ ଦେଖୁ ଦେଖୁ କିମ୍ବା ସହୁ ମୋଜୀବନ ପଛେ ନର୍କେ ପଡ଼ିଥାଉ ଜଗତ ଉଦ୍ଧାର ହେଉ।)The lines are now written on the walls of United Nations.
Mahima Dharma: Swami Mahima Gosain was the original founder of Mahima Dharma.But the credit of spreading it to places around Odisha, Andhrapradesh,Assam,Bengal, goes to Bhimabhoi.He would narrate the messages through catchy poems and his four followers, Basudev Panda,Harihara Panda,Markanda Dash and Dharmanada Dash would write them.Bhimabhoi himself had no formal education,but his teachings are now tought in Universities.Recently Sambalpur University has introduced a separate chair for study on Bhimabhoi.His teachings narrates extensively on socioeconomic,caste and religious discrimination prevailing in society those days.He tought the idea of one God, one religion,one society.God is present everywhere,in every thing. His idea was to take out the society out of this discrimination and thus wrote many poems which helped the Mahima Dharma spread among the opressed and discriminated sector of the society.United Nations and santhakabi Bhimabhoi.
Kandhara: The place can be reached by road from Rairakhol,15 Kms towards Boudh.Odisha,India.There is no hotel/lodge available.However one can stay and have food as prasad(offering) in the Mutt.
Rakhya Bandhan is the Hindu festival of brothers and sisters, but spread across all religions,cast and class in India as well as South Asian.In the months of August(Srabana in Hindu calender, on the day of Rakhya Bandhan the sisters tie a red thread on the right wrist of her brother.The brother in return gifts his sister dress, sweets and vows to protect her at every steps of life.Sister banks upon her brother in every time of crisis.This is India and its culture.
A sister tying Rakhi on his younger brother.
Taliban Culture:. Taliban teaches otherwise.The Taliban religion ( not Allah’s teachings) consider covering of face of their sisters is ultimate protection.The Taliban men covers their sisters with Burka from head to toe.In stead of chocolate as gift ,the Taliban men put a bullet on the head of his sister.
Photo from GooglePhoto from Google
On this Rakhya Bandhan day I wish good sense prevails in the Talibanies and their supporters, Pakistanis in perticular.May the Pakistanis who are well acquainted with the Indian teachings of Love & Respect for the sisters can teach their Talibani friends in Afghanistan.
I wish the teachings of Rakhi reach the Taliban.Wish the sisters are protected , not butchered by Talibans.Rakhya Bandhan-An Indian festival.
Rakhya bandhan, a festival of love, affection and a pledge for protection of the sisters.A Hindu festival, but observed accros the religion in India.Also celebrated in some parts of Asia.Falls in the month of August(Shravana in Hindu calender) the festival is known in different names like Rakhi and Silonu in different areas.
Rakhya Bandhan, a Sanskrit name means “Bond of Protection.On this day the sisters, tie a red thread on the wrist of their brother expecting him to be the protector from every evils .In return, the brother gifts her with dress ,sweets chocolates.
Rakhi-The sacred thread of protection.
Social significance: The brother and sister shares a special bond of affection and love while they grow together. Typically the sister marries and settles in her in- laws house.The brother remains in the parental house,takes care of the elderly parents.On this day, sister comes to her parents house and the Rakhi festival is celebrated.Jointly the entire family celebrates the occasion,shares the sweets and remembers the good times of the past.The sister gets some good times with her parents and relatives.After few days stay, the brother accompany the sister to drop her to her in-laws house.In this way ,the brother becomes a bridge between the both families.In the times of difficulty, the sister banks upon his brother for help and protection.
The function is not confined to blood relation only.Even a brother- sister relationship is created by tying the Rakhi around the wrist of a man cutting across the division of religion ,caste and creed.
A sister tying the Rakhi to her younger brother
Hindu mythology: In Hindu texts of Bhavishya Purana,Lord Krishna mentioned, the tying of Rakhi by Royal priest(Raj Purohit) on the right hand wrist of Yudhisthira.Even today, during Yagyan(worship, offering) the priest ties a red thread as Rakhi on the wrist of all present.
In India ,the Rakhi festival or Rakhya Bandhan is an occasion to bring the families Offers an opportunity to take out some quality time from the busy schedule for the family.Reminding the responsibility of brothers to their families, sisters and elderly parents.Bridges the gap between religion, cast, creed and class.
A lesson for the Talibans: On this day I pray for the sisters of Afganistan.May this Rakhi bring a hope for the sisters.Wish the Taliban learn to protect the sisters.
Also known as the Kalinga fort, the Jaugarh Fort derives its name from Jau means Lac and Garh means Fort.Firstly documented by a team from Heldenberg University, the Jaugarh or Samapa in earlier days was once a fortified provincial capital of Kalinga soon after its conqure by Ashoka. The walls were made of lac, being slippery provided protection from climbing by enemy.The square shaped fort now without any signs of Lac walls,however still attracts many scolars and tourists for the Rock edicts of Ashoka present inside the fort.Protected by the Archeological Survey of India,the edicts are found to be written in Prakrit language in Pali scripts.
The Rock edicts describes the changed and compassionate Ashoka the great.A total of 14 edicts except the 13 th are available.After the carnage of Kalinga war, Ashoka followed Buddhism but never imposed it upon followers other religions.Often he would invite religious heads of other religion to discuss on welfare of its people.
Jaugarh is situated at 35 kms from Berhampur.Other tourist attractions are the Tara Tarini temple on the way and thee Shiba temple, 2 kms away from Jaugarh.
Thousands of miles away from Tibet, a place in Odisha popularly known by the Tibetians here as “Phuntsokling”- the land of plenty and happiness.Surrounded within 5 km radius, it has the settlement of Tibetians in 4 camps at Chandagiri, Labarsing, Mahendragarh and Tanklipadar.A n important Buddhist religion followers and Buddhist site of Odisha.
In 1959 when Chinese invaded Tibet, large population fled to diffrent countries. India offred settlement camps at different places including Chandagiri.In 1963, the first batch of Tibetian refusee arrived in Chandagiri and stayed here ever since in 4 settlement camps, in and around Chandagiri.Generations passed and they made it their home, adding the colour of their culture and simplicity to the existing picturesque hills and forests of the eastern ghats range.The fluttering colourful flags and chanting sounds of Buddhist mantras from the Gompas and stupas have been spreading the essence of peace and attracting large numbers of tourists to this place, every year.
A monastry at Jirang.
Here in Jirang near Chandagiri,the largest monastry of East India is a place of worship and study of Buddhism visited by monks from all over India and nearby countries.His Holiness The Dalai Lama inagurated the monastry in 2010. Mahapadmasambhaba, considered as the second to Lord Buddha, is worshiped here.I was told that Mahapadmasambhaba was the adopted son of King Bibhutipati.Mahapadmasambhab went to Tibet on the invitation of the King there and established Buddhism and Lamaism in Tibet.It is also believed that father of Mahapadmasambhaba,the King Bibhutipati was ruler of Sambal, the present days Sambalpur in Odisha on the banks of Manad or Mahanadi.Mahapadmasambhab is credited with the establishment of Tantric sect of Buddhism in Tibet before wiping out the evil spirits existed there, for which the King of Tibet has invited him.Since then the scholars of Buddhism always regard India and Sanskrit with high esteem and source of inspiration.
Monks of Jirang monastry
(pls visit YouTube link for detail travel videos.
Jirang monastry
My Travel story:
After a week long cloudy weather,it was a sunny morning of 24th july2021, an weekend holidays, with my cameras and light breakfast in a bag, I started at around 7.30 AM , in my Tata Nexon, a distance of slightly more than 80 KMs and 2 Hrs journey from Berhampur,Odisha.After a couple of stops for tea at the road side shops, I reached to the destination at Jirang.The road from Berhampur till Taptapani was straight with not much traffic.After Taptapani, the hilly drive started with sharp turns. Adventurous and scenec beuty of the road upto Jirang and a stop at the Taptapani Hot water spring is enough for a weekend jollytrip with family and friends.Although I was travelling alone but, will definitely go for another trip with family.I have a craze for local vegetables and fruits from road side vendors while travelling.And this time too I didn’t miss to buy few local vegetables and also some fruits for lunch.Before reaching to the Jirng monastry, I met with some Tibetians and talked to know about their life here and also about Buddhism.
Jirang monastry is accessible by all wether roads from Berhampur and Bhubaneswar .Road conditions is good but hilly terrain needs experienced driver.On the way, one can enjoy a dip in the hot springs of Taptapani.Local as well as Tibetian foods are available. Photographer s can enjoy taking some close snaps of Black Bucks at the outskirt villages of Berhampur city. #buddhism#jirang
Thousands of miles away from Tibet, a place in Odisha popularly known by the Tibetians here as “Phuntsokling”- the land of plenty and happiness.Surrounded within 5 km radius, it has the settlement of Tibetians in 4 camps at Chandagiri, Labarsing, Mahendragarh and Tanklipadar.A n important Buddhist religion followers and Buddhist site of Odisha.
In 1959 when Chinese invaded Tibet, large population fled to diffrent countries. India offred settlement camps at different places including Chandagiri.In 1963, the first batch of Tibetian refusee arrived in Chandagiri and stayed here ever since in 4 settlement camps, in and around Chandagiri.Generations passed and they made it their home, adding the colour of their culture and simplicity to the existing picturesque hills and forests of the eastern ghats range.The fluttering colourful flags and chanting sounds of Buddhist mantras from the Gompas and stupas have been spreading the essence of peace and attracting large numbers of tourists to this place, every year.
A monastry at Jirang.
Here in Jirang near Chandagiri,the largest monastry of East India is a place of worship and study of Buddhism visited by monks from all over India and nearby countries.His Holiness The Dalai Lama inagurated the monastry in 2010. Mahapadmasambhaba, considered as the second to Lord Buddha, is worshiped here.I was told that Mahapadmasambhaba was the adopted son of King Bibhutipati.Mahapadmasambhab went to Tibet on the invitation of the King there and established Buddhism and Lamaism in Tibet.It is also believed that father of Mahapadmasambhaba,the King Bibhutipati was ruler of Sambal, the present days Sambalpur in Odisha on the banks of Manad or Mahanadi.Mahapadmasambhab is credited with the establishment of Tantric sect of Buddhism in Tibet before wiping out the evil spirits existed there, for which the King of Tibet has invited him.Since then the scholars of Buddhism always regard India and Sanskrit with high esteem and source of inspiration.
Monks of Jirang monastry
(pls visit YouTube link for detail travel videos.
Jirang monastry
My Travel story:
After a week long cloudy weather,it was a sunny morning of 24th july2021, an weekend holidays, with my cameras and light breakfast in a bag, I started at around 7.30 AM , in my Tata Nexon, a distance of slightly more than 80 KMs and 2 Hrs journey from Berhampur,Odisha.After a couple of stops for tea at the road side shops, I reached to the destination at Jirang.The road from Berhampur till Taptapani was straight with not much traffic.After Taptapani, the hilly drive started with sharp turns. Adventurous and scenec beuty of the road upto Jirang and a stop at the Taptapani Hot water spring is enough for a weekend jollytrip with family and friends.Although I was travelling alone but, will definitely go for another trip with family.I have a craze for local vegetables and fruits from road side vendors while travelling.And this time too I didn’t miss to buy few local vegetables and also some fruits for lunch.Before reaching to the Jirng monastry, I met with some Tibetians and talked to know about their life here and also about Buddhism.
After a day stay here, I decided to return back at 5 PM.
Travel Advisory:
Jirang monastry is accessible by all wether roads from Berhampur and Bhubaneswar .Road conditions is good but hilly terrain needs experienced driver.On the way, one can enjoy a dip in the hot springs of Taptapani.Local as well as Tibetian foods are photographer s can enjoy taking some close snaps of Black Bucks at the outskirt villages of Berhampur city.
This morning after a long time, Dalia was on the breakfast menu. Dalia is a dish prepared from cracked paraboiled wheat. It is boiled with milk and little sugar. The aroma was something similar to the Balgur I had during my school days and it reminded me of those childhood times spent with one of my friend Amar, now a successful man, a father, a father in law, well settled in Angul. But, we both were best friends since then. The Balgur was of immense interest for my friend Amar, but not that much for me. This morning, when I took a spoonful of Dalia, remembered the Sal leaf, Amar, the Balgur and those childhood days.
Dalia
It was in late seventies and early eighties. I was in class 5th in a rural Government school. We were about 50 students in the school,upto 5th standard. In my class we were 10 students. Those days all Government school were being supplied with the Balgur and a metal-canned cooking oil. Like these days mid-day meals, the boiled Balgur was a very important item, all of us in Government school would be waiting for. As I and Amar were in class 5th and were bit healthy to lift the bowl full of boiled Bulgur from kitchen to serving area, we were in-charge of preparation. I don’t remember any cook in the school,those days. At around 10 AM, we would be given with 8-10 kgs of Balgur and a cup of oil. The Balgur and the oil were being supplied to India by USA as an aid those days. So, we had a privilege of having some foreign food since childhood. I and Amar would collect the items and reach to the kitchen, an abandoned room at a distance from the school. Dry leaves and woods would be collected. Now Amar would teach me how to ignite the Chullah(Hearth). After around half an hour struggle in our teens, we would finally be ready to start cooking. A big aluminium pot, never seen its exact colour but black, would be filled with water till we both can lift it. If we could not lift,we would again drain some water out of it. Then we would add the cup of oil in the water and wait till it boils. The the Balgur will be added to the water till it is cooked, sometimes half cooked and sometimes gets overcooked. The Bulgar is same like the Dalia, but the size of crushed wheat differs. The size is bit finer in case of Dalia. Now the time would be around 12 noon and everyone in the school would be waiting for me and Amar. We both would lift the cooked Bulgar in that aluminium pot to the serving area of school. Drenched in sweat,we both would return with immense pride as if had won a war.Then Amar would go to the rear side of the school to pluck some Sal Leaves to be used as plates. Till Amar comes back, I would guarding the cooked food. Then all students would relish the delicious Bulgar. Sometimes, I used to bring a spoon full of sugar from home in a folded paper. I and Amar would share that sugar with Bulgar. The taste and flavour was not of that appealing to me, but the company with others and specially Amar, was something I still adore till today.
Childhood in a government school, Balgur, the sal leaves, and Amar are not only beautiful memories but also practical lessons, of team spirit, of hardships and struggles, of friendship…..
(for all of then who had a schooling in rural Government schools in eighties and had tasted the Bulgur.Please share your comments if you are a student those days)
Journalist is known for its pen.Rightly said pen is mighter than sword.But oxygen concentrators, therometers and oxymeters in the hands of journalist, ready to help the needy at the remote villages, is something which is not only a great moral booster to the medicos but also an inspiration to everyone in the society to come forward.Obviously the message can reach faster and effectively to many through the pen of the journalists themselves.
Basu Foundation was founded by Sri Pratyus Panda from Brajarajnagar,Odisha in the memory of his father Sri Basu Panda.During the pandemic,the Foundation could able to arrange oxygen concentrators to many health centers, specially the rural areas.The idea was to lessen the load on hospitals ,by making available concentrator for mild patients at home isolation.The first foray into rural area started by placing two concentrators at Rairakhol along with some cylinders at an Oxygen bank.
The news reached to the journalists of Deogarh and to Sri Ashok Nanda, a resident of Deogarh.A journalist and social worker,Sri Ashok Nanda is also the General Secretary of Odisha Union of Journalis.Deogarh is a not so economicaly developed area of Odisha and has equally not so good medical facilities.The medical facilities at the remote areas are even poor.Then Sri Nanda messaged Basu Trust to come forward.Basu Trust which has already supplied around 70 concentrators till now, readily agreed to the proposal.Two oxygen concentrators,some pulse oxymeters,IR therometers and some masks were sent to Deogarh.Under the supervision of Sri Nanda the medical equipment were handed over to remote areas at Chatabar and Barkote community health centers.
The community health centers are the backbone of rural health care system.The medical aid provided by the Trust will strengthen the hands of medicos there in delivering health care to the poor rural patients.The journalist volunteers will distribute the mask and create awareness among the mass to fight the pandemic.
I always belive in public participation and this is an example when journalist in form Covid volunteers joins hand with donors and medicos to upgrade the healthcare system in the remote rural areas.More such effort from the public can bring improvement in every field of development.
………keep reading and sharing good news.It improves immunity.
(You may also say thanks Basu Trust on whatsapp number +917008355454.)
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